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October 07, 2025

Timberland: tracking the environmental index of each pair of shoes

Eight water bottles can provide all the materials needed for shoelaces and threads in a pair of shoes. Used shoes can be returned to the store, and various components such as leather, rubber, and metal parts can be refurbished and reused. During a recent press event, Timberland’s CEO and President, Jeffrey Swartz, held up a water bottle and a pair of shoes, stating: “The laces and threads of this shoe are made from recyclable plastic.”
As a global outdoor brand, Timberland has been tracking the environmental impact of each product it produces. This eco-conscious approach is not only part of its corporate mission but also serves as a key strategy to strengthen its presence in the Chinese market. The company has developed a unique "Green Index" system that evaluates products based on three main factors: climate impact, chemical use, and resource consumption.
The Green Index measures the environmental footprint of a product by analyzing greenhouse gas emissions during production, the presence of harmful chemicals like PVC or solvent-based adhesives, and the use of renewable or recycled materials. For example, a pair of Timberland canvas shoes was evaluated using this system, revealing a total climate impact score of 1.5, with 13.5 kg of CO2e from raw materials and 3.5 kg during manufacturing.
In terms of chemical impact, the use of PVC and solvent-based adhesives contributed to a score of 7.5. However, the materials used were largely sustainable, including 63% bamboo fiber and 55% hemp, with the soles and laces made entirely from renewable plastic. After evaluating all three categories, the Green Index score for this shoe came out to 6.0, which is printed on the shoebox like a nutrition label. The lower the score, the more environmentally friendly the product.
Timberland claims to be the only footwear brand using such a comprehensive green evaluation system. It even uses the index to reward employees, with better scores leading to higher incentives for designers. However, challenges remain. For instance, chromium is often used in the tanning process, and while bio-tanned leather may reduce some environmental impacts, it still requires more fossil fuels. As a result, the system now excludes chromium measurements.
According to Timberland, 96% of carbon emissions come directly from their products, while 4% stem from company operations like travel and construction. The Green Index has helped the company track improvements over time. For example, compared to products made in Paris in 2007 and 2008, carbon emissions have dropped by 40%, and chemical use has decreased by 8%. However, the use of raw materials has slightly increased, showing the complexity of sustainability efforts.
Timberland aims to cut carbon dioxide emissions by 20% annually through its Green Index system. Jeffrey Swartz calls this an ambitious goal, but one he believes is achievable. He also emphasizes that eco-friendly materials don’t always mean higher costs. In fact, reducing material use or opting for lighter alternatives can lower freight and production expenses. For instance, less leather usage reduces overall costs, making sustainability both ethical and economical.
However, material choices aren’t always straightforward. Cotton is often seen as more natural than polyester, but in reality, cotton requires more water and harsh detergents over its lifespan. Leather remains a key component in shoe production, though it's still considered environmentally problematic. Even the highest-grade leather used in Timberland’s EK2.0 model is not fully sustainable, highlighting the ongoing challenges in the industry.
To address these issues, Timberland works closely with suppliers through organizations like the Leather Working Group (LWG), which includes brands such as Nike and New Balance. All leather suppliers must undergo third-party testing, and the results influence Timberland’s sourcing decisions. Additionally, contract manufacturers are required to measure their own carbon emissions, pushing them toward greener practices.
Jeffrey Swartz acknowledges that collaboration across the supply chain is essential. Organizations like the Outdoor Industry Association (OIA) help coordinate environmental efforts, and Timberland actively exchanges information with its eco-working group to better understand the environmental impact of its suppliers. While competition with rivals like Nike and Adidas remains fierce, Swartz believes that environmental responsibility is a shared challenge that must be addressed together.
Swartz explains that his focus on sustainability stems from a simple truth: “Without forests and mountains, my business disappears.” Timberland aims to give consumers more informed choices by transparency about materials, energy use, and production processes. “Every CEO cares about profit, but no CEO can ignore consumer demands,” he says. “Profit and environment are ultimately in the hands of the people.”
China has long been a critical production base for Timberland, but the company is now looking to expand its retail presence there. With the country’s growing environmental policies, Swartz notes that pollution transfer is no longer an option. He also confirmed that any past issues with suppliers, such as Shanghai Fuguo Leather Co., Ltd., have been resolved.
Timberland sees China as its next major market, aiming to become its second-largest market within five years. The brand is not just selling products but promoting outdoor culture in a country rich in natural landscapes. From deserts to oceans, China offers vast potential for Timberland’s outdoor gear.
Despite current sales in Asia accounting for only 10% of total revenue, growth in the region has been strong—19.7% in the last quarter alone. With plans to enter joint ventures and deepen partnerships, Timberland is positioning itself as a leader in the Chinese market, using sustainability as a key differentiator.
On November 11, Timberland partnered with the Beijing Environmental Exchange and singer Lee Hom for the first “carbon-neutral” concert in China. The brand also announced a decade-long tree-planting initiative in Horqin, further reinforcing its commitment to environmental responsibility. As Swartz said, “No company can afford to ignore the Chinese market.” And with its headquarters now moved to Shanghai, Timberland is ready to make its mark in the world’s largest consumer market.

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